This is my first blog about Scotland in almost 6 months, so people may have been wondering why there was such a long gap in my postings. The simple answer is that there was a major change in my life in the second half of last year. Trees for Life, the charity I founded to help restore the Caledonian Forest in 1986, and into which I had poured my energy, creativity, passion and heart for the next 31 years, decided they no longer had a role for me in the organisation. I therefore went through the traumatic experience of being made redundant by the charity I founded, and which I had led to numerous awards for its conservation work.
I still had just as much enthusiasm and commitment to the charity as ever, and over a period of several months I made numerous suggestions for work I could do and new projects that I could take forward, which would further the mission of Trees for Life to help restore the Caledonian Forest. All of that was to no avail though, and I found myself in the astonishing and completely unexpected position of parting ways with the project that had been my life work for over three decades. This was not at all of my choosing, and was a very sad and painful experience that created a major cloud over my daily life for many months, while the process unfolded. One of the effects of that was on my writing – although I started two or three different blogs during that period I just didn’t have the energy to complete them, because of what was happening to me at work. As it transpired, I finished working for Trees for Life at the end of October in 2017, and left for a 6 week trip to South America on 1st November. That not only gave me some distance and a break from the immediacy of what had happened, but it also enabled me to continue working on a personal project I’ve been developing for over 3 years – the production of a high quality photographic book about the Araucaria (monkey puzzle tree) forests of the Andes in Chile and Argentina.
That was the longest of the 4 trips I’ve made to the Araucaria forest since January 2015, and it gave me time to immerse myself deeply in beautiful areas of natural, undisturbed ancient forest and re-orient myself for a new life, after Trees for Life. It was a very positive and powerful experience, and I felt really touched by the spirit of Nature there – I’ll be writing blogs about some of my experiences in the weeks and months ahead. I returned to Scotland in mid-December and took some quiet time for myself during the following weeks, which are the darkest in terms of the limited number of hours of daylight each day, and are therefore the most inward-looking time of the year. Now, I feel refreshed, liberated and inspired to move forward with other creative ventures and projects in my life, and one example of that was the recent blog I was invited to write about birds.
After a hiatus of 3 months, covering the final part of the redundancy process and my time in Chile and Brazil, I’ve also been going back out to Glen Affric again, renewing my personal connection with the land and the forest there. I’ve made three trips there since the beginning of February, and there’s been a common theme of sun, snow and ice linking them all. While I haven’t actually experienced the glen with completely new eyes because of what happened to me since my last visit in October, the break has nevertheless enabled me to appreciate the beauty and life of Affric afresh, and I hope that will be apparent from the photos and words here.
This first of the three blogs will be focused more on the sun, and the following ones will feature more images of snow and ice, as that was how I experienced the three days in reality. However, all three elements were present each day so the blogs will incorporate them, but just in a different balance to each other. This variation in the weather has been a typical feature of winter in the Highlands this year.
We’ve had a lot sunny days recently where I live at Findhorn, but as I write this at the end of February, the snow is falling and it’s being referred to as the coldest week of the year. At the beginning of the month though, the low ground in Glen Affric was almost completely snow free. I’d gone out there hoping to find snow, and there was certainly a lot on the higher peaks, but it had mostly vanished from the bottom of the glen. However, because I’ve become very familiar with the micro-climates of different parts of the glen during the course of the past 4 decades, I knew where there would be some small patches still remaining.
One of those is the narrow gorge of the Affric River at Dog Falls, which is both sheltered from the wind and, because of its aspect, also receives very little sunlight in winter. The gorge is formed by a steep bluff on the south side of the River, with exposed cliffs at the falls themselves, and this keeps the area in complete shade for the winter months. It was there that I came across these tiny patches of frozen snow and ice – all that was left of a snowfall in the previous week.
It seemed a shame though to stay in this deep shade on what was essentially a beautiful sunny and cloudless day, so I headed further west to take advantage of the sunshine. Following my intuition, I went out on to the north side of Loch Affric, past the end of the public road in the glen, where there’s a scattering of old Scots pines (Pinus sylvestris) in an otherwise open landscape.
I’ve passed through that area on many occasions in the past, particularly when we used to organise a sponsored walk around Loch Affric in early October each year to raise funds for Trees for Life. We stopped doing those walks several years ago, and although I’ve been out on the north side of Loch Affric a few times in the past 12 months, there’s one particular group of a few old Scots pines there that I’d never been up to look at. It was those therefore that I set my sights on visiting now.
Some of the pines are growing along the edge of a small burn, where the steeper topography must have enabled them to grow successfully without being overgrazed by red deer (Cervus elaphus) when they were young. The trees are all ‘open grown’ individuals – they have spreading canopies, which indicate that they had open space around them as they grew. By contrast, Scots pines that grow in close proximity to each other (as they do in commercial plantations, for example) have narrow crowns and straight trunks with few side branches.
These trees had all been free to grow in their own way, and have matured into unique individuals, each with a different shape. Their forms reflect the growing conditions they experienced, such as their aspect with regard to the sun, the soil conditions, exposure to the wind etc. They also had varied colours of red in their upper branches, and this was accentuated by the low-angled sun of this winter afternoon.
I spent some time with several of the trees, looking at the pattern of the branches that varied on each one, appreciating their individual character and beauty. Looking at them silhouetted against the sun, I could feel how they were absorbing the sun’s energy, ready for the new growth of spring.
Sadly though, there are no young Scots pines getting established in this part of the glen. I saw some tiny pine seedlings, but there are still too many deer here, so none of them are able to grow above the height of the surrounding heather (Calluna vulgaris). Like most of the mature pines in the Caledonian Forest, these ones are reaching the end of their lives and as they die without being replaced, the retreat and decline of the forest is still continuing.
In the last year I took the lead role in negotiating and planning a series of proposed new exclosures for forest restoration with the landowner on this privately-owned part of Glen Affric. While that work should go ahead in the next year, this area of old pines in my photos here is not covered by any of the new regeneration projects, so unfortunately there’s unlikely to be any new trees growing to replace these old ones in the near future.
Somehow the sadness I experienced seeing these dying trees seemed to echo and reflect my own feelings about my involuntary parting from Trees for Life …
By this time the sun was setting so I took a few photos from amongst the old pines looking to the west and then headed back towards the car park at the end of the public road in the glen. Loch Affric narrows at its eastern end, before discharging into the short section of the Affric River that flows between Lochs Affric and Beinn a’ Mheadhoin, and there were some beautiful reflections of the pastel sunset colours there.
Further east again, I stopped along the north side of Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin to get a last look at the sunset glow to the west. The perfectly still waters of the loch created a beautiful reflection of the fading colours, and this was a very fitting end to what had been a beautiful day back in one of my favourite places for the first time in over 3 months.
This blog will continue in Part 2, where the main focus will be on snow, and Part 3, where ice will take centre stage.
Hello Alan
I have been a volunteer at TfL for many years and am deeply saddened and shocked that TfL have acted in this way. It is an amazing vision and project-thank you so much for your work on it over the years.
Hi Alan
I’m still reeling after reading your blog last night, I feel this deeply as you can imagine. My heart goes out to you, a truly short-sighted and destructive action by Tfl in my opinion. You ARE Trees for Life,and the love and support will follow you and your vision forward to whatever lies ahead at this critical time for our planet. Heal and draw strength dear friend.
Yvonne
Dear Alan,
I was very sorry to hear about this sad period of time you have been through. And of course quite confused about whatever politics are involved….But I know this: You have been blessed with a great vision for helping our earth, and an artistic gift of vision that helps us all to “see” better. I am hoping that this abrupt change will open up new opportunities for your life, your energies, and your inner vision. Great and wonderful surprises may be in store for you. As we learned back in 1978 in our FF orientation program, sometimes there must be a void before something new comes in…..Take time to grieve, this is only natural, but be open to unexpected newness and future delights as well. They will come.
Dear Alan,
this feels completely wrong. How can they kick you out of the organization you started?
I more or less experienced the same, being the founder and chairman of a nature organization.
If you want to somehow become part of the Ecosystem Restoration Consortium Europe, then let me know. Just a network, so no one can kick out an other person.
Best wishes!
Henri
Hi Alan,
I am so upset to hear what has happened to you. You have always been an inpsiration of mine. I visited glen Affric in 2013 when myself and a friend caneoed up both lakes and camped in the pine forest. Coming from deforested Ireland, it was such a special experience to be in such a large forested landscape, particularly of scots pine.
I understand you will be in Ireland next month to speak at the Irish native Woodland Conference. In light of what has happened I’m not sure if this is still the case but but if so I hope to see you there and would like to invite you to go see Ireland’s puported last native stand of scots pine in the Burren Co. Clare. It is a very special place. Feel free to email me if interested.
Daniel
Like so many people who’ve had the honour of knowing you and working with you, this news comes as a bit of a shock and leaves me both saddened and more than a little confused. I knew that you’d stepped down from the directorship to become “Founder” but the suggestion that you no longer have a role in the charity you founded is a big blow. Are you still on the Board? I hope you are able to redirect your knowledge, experience, heart, spirit and energy somewhere new. If you feel you need an “intellectual home” then WRi is *always* open to you. I don’t know your new email address, but feel free to call for a chat, and you’re always welcome at Chez Carver.
Can’t quite believe this Alan. I’m shocked. You’re work has inspired me and I hope you continue in whatever capacity you can. Like others I’m considering my support for TfL, certainly I hope we get some response from them, all seems very odd. Best wishes.
I was shocked and saddened to hear of this Alan. For me, you were always the beating heart of Trees for Life, and so I am rather baffled by this. You’ve inspired so many through your work and vision and I hope you receive further recognition for it. Good luck with whatever you now choose to do.
Thank you for the latest post to your blog. I am so sorry that you have parted with Trees for Life – a bitter moment as the founder and leader for so long.
On the very limited matter of the campaign to restore beavers to Scotland and to spare the beavers in the Tay I have always been most grateful to you for your donation to us back in the dark moments of 2011.
Anyhow, I suppose that time marches on and people and organisations change. At least your role in conservation in Scotland can never be forgotten. You have been and will continue to be a beacon.
Generations to come will appreciate your work and efforts, but don’t stop there. You have the ability to write and illustrate a book or two, and further promote your vision, not just in your land but others. Remember few probably heard of John Muir in his own day, I hope someday you get to see what he saved here in North America. Recreating a wilderness is probably harder than saving one?
Dear Alan,
I’m so sorry and baffled to hear that. It was you, your beautiful writing and photography, that inspired me to support Trees For Life. I wish you all the best. Please keep on writing your blog, you have so many supporters.
I have written my comment, and it appears that it is unacceptable to the new management of Trees for Life. That can only add to my stand that we will no longer support them and advise our friends and acquaintances un the UK and USA to do likewise. A good cause turned into a disgrace.
Until this “execution” is fully explained in detail and both legal and basic language, we will stop supporting Trees for Life, as we have for the past 30 years, and recommend that our friends and acquaintances both in the UK and USA do likewise.
How incredibly sad to be needlessly and ruthlessly cut from your life’s work. We no longer donates to Trees for Life – after four years of giving, and having the privilege of Alan attending two of our annual Gatherings and giving the most fascinating talks to our guests. I do hope it’s not setting aside the strong ethics Alan established and just becoming another profit hungry behemoth of a ‘commercial’ charity. A sad day.
Well I’ve heard it all now! Are human beings competing for some sort of stupidity award! On another tack, you know that picture you have taken of the little frond of bracken near Dog Falls, look how it has made a melt hole. I wonder if, being dark it absorbs a little more heat than the surrounding white snow and warms up a little?
Keep strong, Man!
Daar Mr Featherstone, Dear Alan,
Let this be the beginning of new and beautifull times.
We will hopefully stil enjoy your inspiring letters.
God speed.
Dear Alan, I have been following your blog for a number of years, and take much pleasure in reading your wonderful writing and fabulous photographs. You are a very talented man, with the great gift of being able to communicate your passions and interests to others. The charity stands as testament to your life’s work, and nothing will change that. This negative move on their part will undoubtedly prove to be their loss and your gain. I wish you all best wishes in your future projects, Fiona
Dear Alan,
Dear Soul, Count it as a blessing that you have been freed of commitments – let the others take on the charity and do what you have a fantastic gift for- seeing great beauty in natural things which normal humans would not notice, but when our attention is brought to such items of natural wonders by your gifted eyes and skilful use of the camera, then you are creating a gallery of very precious images. Give thanks for the redundancy which has freed you to be a continual artist with your insights into the wonders of Mother Nature. God Bless your work. Do it while you have the energy to expend creating it. Well done Alan and good luck, Midge in the Isle-of-Man. PS I have always thought you were someone special ! X X
This seems very wrong. Your blog and tweets led me to start a small monthly payment to TfL, and my initial response on reading your post is to ask myself if I should continue it. Can you say more about what led to the decision?
Alan, I just wanted to let you know I so enjoy your posts and have been reading your bird-related one. I look forward to seeing nature through your eyes. I appreciate the time you linger, as I do, on details that catch the eye and evoke a feeling of connection with the life force. I hope to visit Scotland again and see some of your landscapes.